In his latest Himalayan expedition, Brazilian climber Moeses Fiamoncini became the first alpinist from the country to conquer Dhaulagiri and the true summit of Manaslu.
On September 20, at 6:21 AM local Nepalese time, Moeses reached the summit of Manaslu without supplemental oxygen or the assistance of Sherpas.
Standing at 8,163 meters, Manaslu is the eighth highest mountain in the world. This marked Moeses’ second summit of the peak, but back in 2018, there was no confirmation of Manaslu’s true height.
“At that time, alongside renowned Spanish climber Sergi Mingote, who sadly passed away in a winter K2 climb in 2021, we believed we had reached the true summit where everyone stopped,” Moeses recounts.
“But in 2021, a drone photo confirmed what many suspected, and the debate seemed to end. Now the mountaineering community agrees that climbers must reach the current summit to complete the ascent,” states the Paraná native. With eight peaks over 8,000 meters to his name, Moeses has surpassed the achievements of celebrated Brazilian mountaineer Waldemar Niclevicz.
The Challenge of Dhaulagiri
Just over a week after summiting Manaslu, Moeses embarked on the journey to the summit of Dhaulagiri, the world’s seventh-highest mountain at 8,176 meters. This climb proved far more challenging for the alpinist.
In 2019, an accident at 8,120 meters prevented him from reaching the top. “I was only 47 meters from the summit when I crossed a rock wall covered with 30 centimeters of snow. I slipped and fell 20 meters. My helmet broke, and my suit, gloves, and boots filled with snow,” Moeses recalls. Without a Sherpa or oxygen, he narrowly survived hypothermia.
This time, the climb demanded more psychological resilience than physical endurance. “When I got close to the summit, near the site of the 2019 accident, I began reflecting on past events and felt an overwhelming sadness in my chest. I thought about how only four years had passed and how dear friends were no longer there.”
During the 2019 autumn expedition, Moeses had been at Dhaulagiri Base Camp with Spanish climber Sergi Mingote, Chilean Juan Pablo Mohr, Pakistani Ali Sadpara, Bulgarian Atanas Skatov, and Greek Antonios Sykaris. Tragically, all of them have since perished in various accidents on peaks above 8,000 meters.
“I remember being near the summit and almost giving up. Many thoughts consumed my mind, but I could hear Sergi and Juan Pablo telling me I could make it. At that moment, with tears in my eyes, I started climbing again, feeling certain they were with me. When I passed the most difficult part, the exact spot of my 2019 accident, I got on my knees and gave thanks,” Moeses shares. “I dedicate this summit to the memory of these great climbers and friends who lost their lives chasing their dreams.”
The Dream of 14 Peaks
Having summited eight of the world’s 14 highest mountains, Moeses Fiamoncini aims to become the first Brazilian to complete the 14-peak project. In August this year, he climbed Gasherbrum I (8,068 meters), completing ascents of all five of Pakistan’s mountains above 8,000 meters.
In addition to these achievements, Moeses has also climbed Everest (8,849 meters), Nanga Parbat (8,126 meters), and K2 (8,611 meters) in 2019; Broad Peak (8,051 meters) and Gasherbrum II (8,035 meters) in 2022.
Moeses’ inspiring journey continues to push the limits of Brazilian mountaineering, fueled by determination, resilience, and a deep passion for the mountains.
